Repair Land Rover Discovery 1 Rear Electric Windows | Landyworld

Repair Land Rover Discovery 1 Rear Electric Windows

Repair Land Rover Discovery 1 Rear Electric Windows

There are a few common problems with discovery electric windows.  The switches in the centre console don’t seem particularly reliable – I have had to change a few.  The good news is all four of these electric window switches are the same so it’s easy to swap them around to prove if it’s the switch at fault.

If your discovery rear electric windows won’t open from the centre console switches or from the switches on the rear door, it’s more likely you have a problem with the electric window ECU.  This electronic control unit sits behind the glove box and also appears to be a common problem.  

If you can use a soldering iron and a few basic tools this is definitely worth a go before you start ordering expensive replacement window ECU just to fix the rear electric windows.  

I have had several emails asking if I can supply reconditioned discovery electric window lift ECUs.  I often have these for sale with the dry joints soldered up and tested.  Please see the land rover parts page.  If you are unable to repair your own unit and I don’t currently have any available I am able to have your unit repaired.  Please contact me for more information.   

To repair Land Rover discovery electric window lift ECU

Firstly you need to remove the glove box.  This is easy enough; you remove the four bolts holding the hinges (7mm socket or spanner required for these).

Remove glovebox screws to access electric window ECUOnce you have removed the bolts from both hinges you can lift the glove box out.  With a bit of fiddling you can get the spring loaded side bits to come out through the little cut outs without having to unscrew anything else.





Once the glove box is out of the way you can easily locate the electric window ECU – see picture for exact location. This is on a none ABS model. If yours has ABS the window lift ECU is still in the same place but there will be an ABS ECU alongside it.





In the above picture I have already prised out the black trim from around the ECU multi plugs, this comes out easy enough with a flat head screwdriver.  Once this trim is out of the way you can remove the board from the electric window control unit.  The circuit board will come out with the ECU still bolted in place; there is no need to remove the bolts holding it in.  This is what the top of the circuit board will look like.

Discovery Electric window ECU circuit board


Flip it over and look for dry joints (damaged solder).  If in doubt, re solder any suspect ones.  The one that is most commonly damaged is shown below.



Discovery electric window ecu dry joints

2 Minutes with the soldering iron and its time to refit and test that you have rear electric windows working on your discovery! The car these pics were taken on is our 1995 300tdi Land Rover Discovery RHD; some other models may vary slightly.  My rear electric windows didn’t work at all for months, this was made all the more irritating by the fact I fixed it in 20 minutes in the end.  I believe there is a very similar problem with range rover classics, I don’t know if they share the same electric window ECU but I would think it’s highly likely!  

I have since done loads of these ECU repairs – it really does seem to be a common problems with discovery rear electric windows.

Please note this article assumes you can use a soldering iron without burning yourself, your car or anything else for that matter.  It’s not a definitive technical guide, its just a few pictures of how I solved the problem of my Land Rover Discovery rear windows not opening.

5 Comments to “Repair Land Rover Discovery 1 Rear Electric Windows”

  1. Took me a while to check for dry solder. I had to use a magnifying glass but so far you are spot on about that particular connection. My 1995 RR Classic is a LHD. ECU board had very limited removal space. I managed to undo the front two retaining nuts on the case and twisted the cover up and sideways, barely a 1/16″ of room. More after I re soldr the connection and use the Multimeter.

  2. That solder connection illustrated above was tricky to diagnose. careful prodding with the multimeter proved a bad connection. NOW to put it all back in place and test it out!!!

    • Im pretty sure that will do the job but let us know how you get on! Its interesting to know that the Range Rover Classic shares the same window lift ECU as the Discovery 1. Out of interest, was it the exact same problem? Just the rear windows not working?

      Good luck!


  3. Awesome Tip! Thank you, my 99 Discovery had a failure on the same solder joint. I would have had a very hard time finding that failure point without the guidance of your post.

    As this is obviously a common failure and since the original solder on that joint appears to have melted, I am thinking that pin must get more heat/current than the others. This is probably due to the fact that both rear windows are powered from this single output (through Pin 4 of Connector C288), as opposed to the front windows which are powered through individual circuits. To avoid future failures it may be advisable to avoid winding both rear windows at the same time.

    Life Lessons Learned:
    1. I dislike the engineers that designed the placement of the ECU.
    2. I am too big to be a mechanic.

  4. Additional tips for novice troubleshooters (like me):

    You can test for failure of the ECU in rear window power issues, before removing it, by testing for power on the input and output pins of the rear window circuits. Once you’ve located the windows ECU, note that there are two connectors. The connector with 10 pins is C287, it is used for control signals. The connector with 8 pins is C288. C288 has heavier gauge wires and is used to deliver power to the window circuits.

    1. Input power for the rear window circuits is received on pin 8 of C288 (purple wire next to the white wire). If you don’t see 12V on pin 8, check the rear power window fuse (F2 of Satellite Fuse Box 2).
    2, Pin 3 of C287 (green wire) is a control signal indicating that the ignition switch is on. You should see 12V on this pin when the ignition switch is on.
    3. Output power for the rear windows is delivered on pin 4 of C288 (white wire). When pin 8 of C288 and pin 3 of C287 are both at 12V, you should see 12V on pin 4 of C288. If you are not seeing 12V on pin 4, then you probably have a failure in the ECU on the solder joint highlighted in the article.

    If pin 4 of C288 is producing a 12V output, the problem is probably in the wiring or switches, not the ECU.

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